Shinagawa was the first post-town on the great Tōkaidō highway south of Edo, a bustling world of samurai processions, temples, scholars and travellers. Much of it survives, hidden in plain sight. This illustrated talk traces a five-kilometre walk from Yatsuyama Bridge to the Suzugamori execution ground along the original highway alignment. Along the way, explore the Zen temple Tōkai-ji, the grave of scholar Kamo no Mabuchi, the inn district where feudal lords once lodged with their vast retinues, and the execution ground where thousands met their end on the city's southern edge. Historic maps, woodblock prints and photographs bring each site vividly to life. No prior knowledge of Japan is assumed, only curiosity. By the end of the course, you will see how traces of Edo-period Japan continue to shape one of the world's most modern cities and perhaps be inspired to walk this historic route yourself.
Introduction
- The Tōkaidō highway and its 53 post-towns; Shinagawa as Gateway to Edo
The Inn District
- Feudal lord processions, lodging houses, and street life in Shinagawa-juku
Yatsuyama Bridge
- Northern entrance to the post-town; where the journey south began
Tōkai-ji Temple
- Founded by Zen Master Takuan; swordsmanship, meditation and the Unfettered Mind
Ōyama Cemetery
- Graves of Takuan, scholar Kamo no Mabuchi, and railway pioneer Inoue Masaru
Kamo no Mabuchi's Grave
- National Historic Site; the philosophy encoded in a rounded stone
The Old Tōkaidō Streetscape
- Surviving alignments, buildings and the curve that defined post-town design
Shinagawa and the Sea
- The bay, fishing villages, and Hiroshige's famous woodblock print
Suzugamori Execution Ground
- Edo-period justice on the city's southern edge
Conclusion
- What survives, what is lost, and why Shinagawa rewards the curious walker
Students will be able to take the maps and resources provided in this course to undertake a day walk through the old Shinagawa Post-town with an eye to history and an understanding of how the old post-town community continues to survive.
